First, the difficulty of production
Yosemite difficulty system
In the 1930s, the American SIERRACLUB developed a difficulty system, which is now the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), which is divided into six levels, as follows:
The first level is on the rocky slopes, and it is generally not to help balance.
The second level is sometimes hand-operated, but beginners and inflexible people do not have to use rope protection.
The third level is quite dangerous after a fall and it is often used. It's best to prepare the rope.
The fourth level requires certain climbing techniques. Most people think that because of the danger of life if they fall, the rope is necessary. General climbers need protection and protection points are easy to find.
Five levels must use ropes and protection to prevent serious consequences from falling, requiring special climbing and protection techniques to varying degrees. Starting from this level is called "technical climbing."
The fifth level here refers to the current rock climbing, which is also known as the five-level technique climb. By the 1950s, the five-level climb was divided into 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, the preceding number 5 still represents the five climbing, the following 0 to 10 represents the difficulty of climbing the route, this is a closed system, the simplest line is defined as 5.0, and the most difficult The route was set at 5.10; from then on, many routes have their own difficulties and give rock climbers a lot of convenience.
However, problems quickly emerged. The climbers’ level improved rapidly. After the first 5.10 route appeared, many routes were ranked in 5.10, many of which were considered early. 5.10 is difficult, some may be a lot harder. In order to solve this problem, the YDS system becomes an open system, and the sub-degree of difficulty represented by the letters a, b, c, d has been increased from 5.10, so that the YDS system becomes the current from 5.0 to 5.15. Open the system.
In general, people who do not have training can go up to 5.6. Those who have basic skills training are 5.6-5.9. Starting from 5.10, they need regular skills and strength training. But this is a very general statement. The hardest route in the world is probably 5.14d or 5.15a. The difficulty of the new route is given by the climber according to the level of experience he has already climbed (subjectively), and then the number of climbers is higher, giving subjective ratings. Slowly fixed.
The yds are rated on the route according to the most difficult "technical moves" on a route. There are ten 5.10 moves and only 5.10 moves around the ground. The route is 5.10. And the different nature of the route (plane, crack, friction) The level of ..) is actually sometimes difficult to compare. However, there are more people climbing and the level becomes objectively strict. Britain, France, Germany, and Australia all have their own hierarchy. The British level consists of two parts: technology and risk.
Class B bouldering difficulty system
In the 1960s, JOHNGILL brought the modern bouldering movement into a brand new era. More and more bouldering enthusiasts and more bouldering routes are being built. Due to the characteristics of bouldering, most bouldering routes are difficult to reach 5.10 (Note: At that time, the YDS system was still a closed system. So JOHNGILL decided to develop a special difficulty system for bouldering so that B difficulty was born. B difficulty is also a closed system, only three difficulty levels, B1, B2, B3; JOHNGILL defines these three levels:
B1: The very difficult bouldering route is harder than climbing the hardest route at the time;
B2: The bouldering route that is harder than B1 is very difficult to repeat, that is, it is difficult to be successfully completed twice;
B3: The bouldering route that cannot be repeated. If it is repeated, it will be downgraded to B2;
However, this system also has a lot of problems. Because the level of rock climbers is different, it is difficult to set the level of the bouldering circuit very accurately. In the 1960s, B1 was roughly equivalent to 5.10, but by the 1980s, B1 was equivalent to 5.12; therefore, B difficulty has rarely been used in recent years, and V difficulty has been replaced by it.
V level bouldering difficulty system
The V difficulty was born in the 1980s. It was first used by a group of bouldering enthusiasts in the Huecotank region of the United States. It was later sorted out by JOHNSHERMAN as a complete difficulty system. The letter V in front of the V difficulty is said to be the initial letter of the JOHNSHERMAN nickname. The V difficulty begins at V1, and the difficulty is equivalent to 5.11 of the YDS difficulty system. Later, when JOHNSHERMAN collated the system, V0-, V0, V0+ were added to reduce the difficulty level of bouldering so that more people could devote themselves to bouldering. This bouldering difficulty system is now widely used.
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