Recently, people rushed to discuss what kind of weight is most suitable for rock climbing. Each of them expressed his own experience and experience. The younger brother was discomfortably ascended due to a long time ago, and he decided to participate in the free self-"Meeden" course. (Mei Dengfeng + Phemons = did not wait for the death of [Taiwanese], and translated this article from time to time to share with fellow fans.
Is eating disorder annoying for rock climbers?
The following storyline for a group of rock climbers reported each other on his daily diet. One of them said that I only had a muffin and a banana today. The next one was followed by .. .. .. and so on until the last Frankly speaking, I am so hungry that I ate a little laxative and some grapes today. Obviously the last person revealed that he is unhappy. Recently some rock climbers are very fanatical about weight loss and want to give the stomach a little weight for a little ups and downs. Tightening. This enthusiasm is not only for displaying muscled physique, but also because of the impact of weight on climbing performance. How low does the weight begin to affect your performance and health? Regardless of your strength/weight How much more than that, if you get rid of calories that produce energy, that will not make you enough to climb. Many climbers are strongly afraid of gaining weight, or have to take more mentality to eat a long run or take a lot of horizontal bar Consuming too much food.
Has the climber been troubled by eating disorder? Is it the deep question he is talking about when he loses weight? It is a difficult question to answer. The slim and strong body is an integral part of sports life. However, sports-drug research has suggested in the last decade that athletes have a greater risk of eating disorder than non-athletes, that wrestling and boxers must control weight in order to compete, and even jokes that before the horses have to go to the toilet to vomit in order to pass pounds. 1990 The NCAA survey shows that 64% of female athletes have a disordered diet. Generally there are more studies on women than men. We have heard that some people can only eat PowerBar, Diet Coke or red-point before the game. Pounds weight. Research also shows that some sports like gymnastics, ballet, figure skating and bodybuilding etc. will have advantages if they have a thinner appearance, so eating and drinking are more common and climbing also suffers the same fate. Strength/weight ratio makes you With different climbing performances, the climber is hungry to achieve a proper low weight, but many people are overkill, not only losing strength but gradually eating out of order. One for over 4500 A survey conducted by the runners showed that 48% of women and 22% of men are often, often, or always afraid of being overweight. In 1989 Philip Watts - a psychologist at the University of Northern Michigan studied the top men and women of the Snowbird World Cup. In the final statistics of 21 men and 18 women players, male athletes accounted for about 4.4% of body fat, 10.7% of female players, and the final six female players were as low as 9.6%.
The top rock climbers have lower body fat, but Watts said that the male body fat is just “essential body fat†- the essential fat that protects vital organs in the body, while the women are slightly inadequate and will have an impact on their health. Hermann Gollner, a world-class alpine skiing instructor and regular climber, said that according to his own experience he disagreed with Watts's research. He believes that women can accept such low body fat, and Gollner said that general men are 5 to 8 percent of body fat. 6.5 to 9% of women are considered to be the best to enhance performance. On the other hand, Geoff Weigand, a rock climbing instructor in Salt Lake City, said that he has seen that the effects of dietary deregulation are mostly women. Once the immune system is damaged, it is easy to get sick. This is what he is worried about.
When you become lighter, you cannot produce the same strength. You have seen such a situation in the people he trains. Sports climbing is a movement that requires strength. If your muscles cannot grow, you cannot produce more strength when you are hungry. Yourselves, your muscles will not grow. The most common diet disorder is anorexia and hunger. They have the same symptoms but have different diagnoses. Control of body fat at very low standards may damage the body and produce any other Problems.
The anorexic and anorexia nervosa have anorexia in the literature. About 1% of Americans suffer from anorexia. The anorexia has irregular periods in women, has a lasting effect on the regenerative system, and causes osteoporosis and even brain contraction. Hunger is plagued by about 3% of Americans. After eating, patients will suffer from vomiting and diarrhea to deal with the problems of fat. Hi hunger often occurs in the long diet, if the climber can not maintain weight loss, You often lose weight with a drastic method. Once you begin to induce vomiting or strong discharge, it will become easier and more habitual, and the discomfort will be reduced. After a long time, the body loses its ability to know when to hungry. The stomach never feels full. And food becomes odorless. Anorexia and hunger are thought to be susceptible to arthralgia, fractures, kidney failure, and nerves.
The top rock climber at Tim Fairfield-ASCF admitted that he was suffering from hunger. When Fairfield had just started vomiting every month or eating too much, he used to tell himself that I wouldn’t be fat. He thought that vomiting would make him thin. He had spit once a day. Seven times. During his period of hi hungry, he was more athletic but still kept a certain weight. So he began to try not to eat, did not absorb any nutrients and refused to lose calories. Later he began to eat a big meal and eat nutritious food instead of junk food. Feeling too full and spontaneously vomiting. Fairfield said sometimes he couldn't climb outside because energy was too low and he couldn't perform tough training. Performance was also affected. Fairfield's behavior is typical of this disease. Lucky. He understood that he was destroying himself. Although he still spits out when he eats too much, he has not vomited on small and nutritious foods. This has improved his climbing. He has participated in domestic and World Cup competitions. Stable sponsors not to mention having a healthy body and a healthier attitude.
According to Sean McCann, a psychologist at the Colorado Olympic Training Center, this may be a fact - increasing weight will reduce the strength/weight ratio. Whether to reduce weight or increase climbing is a goal you must understand for a rock climber. .Kara Bronxon, a graduate student in California, recently did his master's thesis on exercise psychology in the female rock climber's eating. This is the only record in the United States. He is on the 18 best climbers (5.12+) and A survey of 16 casual rock climbers concluded that the female rock climber had serious diet disorder but people did not really talk about it.
Fat panic Bronxon said an interesting thing in his study - rock climber's fear of fat, they are afraid to eat fat. Better climbers average only 20.9% of the daily calorie source comes from fat prevention, he said that if the daily fat intake is less than 39g will It is difficult to deal with normal diets. The recommended amount for females of medium size is 67g per day (U.S. size). She also recommends that female rock climbers improve their ability to climb even more than they lose weight, because they are not likely to develop the same strength as men, but also hope that Controling weight from diet Because exercise climbing can often not consume too much calories. Sports climbing tends to burn less fat than anaerobic exercise, such as 400 meters of sprint and 5 minutes of red-point, fat only provides a small amount of energy.
Diagnosis and processing
How do you know who is eating out of order? First of all, look for some special symptoms like inattention, feelings of indecision, desperation, etc. are the appearance of eating disorder. People with anorexia are often skinny, Deny hunger to prove your control, wear large clothes to cover your visible fat, exercise excessively, treat foods as enemies and avoid food-related gatherings. People suffering from hunger have food and weight problems , often stomachache, secret food, eat junk food, often run the toilet or use vomiting and laxatives to remove food and drink. Not every skinny climber has a diet disorder, but I think there is probably a bottom in my heart now. Whoever eats or drinks is out of order. If you want to help someone who may be suffering from a diet disorder, don’t let them think it’s a sign of an athlete’s or individual’s failure. Injury and climbing performance may occur during illness and recovery. Question. McCann suggested that if you tell the patient that you are too skinny to eat more, he will treat you as an enemy and think that you do not understand him. As his friends and partners, you must let him know that they are out of control.
The above survey data for the United States, on the general body fat rate may not be easy to measure, here is provided by the Japanese Rocks & Snow magazine excerpts from a survey of Japanese rock climbers, including another BMI index and excellent rock climbing The height and weight of the person can also be used as a reference. The data shows that rock climbing is a very suitable sport for the Orientals.
BMI = Weight / Height (m) 2
Gender: Male/Female
On-sight capability: 5.12a/b5.11d
Red-point capability: 5.13a/b5.12b/c
The average height: 168.55/156.41
Average weight: 58.43/48.09
BMI: 20.55/19.67
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