In 1980, two years after I climbed Everest without artificial oxygen, I went to Everest again. This time I successfully singled out the summit. This action is not to double my first summit, nor to show that I can do it alone without Peter. Instead, try to climb 8000-meter peaks in different seasons. This is a new show. I have been to the Himalayas many times but it is all in spring or autumn. This time I will go back in the Indian monsoon season. In addition, I will embark on Mount Everest from the North Slope because I have not been to Tibet yet.
When the Chinese government opened mountain peaks to Tibet for mountaineers, I immediately began applying for a permit. The attraction of Tibet to me is as great as that of this 8000-meter-level mountain peak. In addition, the North Slope is also a historic and interesting place. This climb was the most exciting time for me. When I arrived in Beijing, I was fortunate to get a permit. In July 1980, we entered the Rongbuk Glacier on the north side of Mount Everest. It is here that the British made a series of climbing expeditions from 1920 to 1930.
My girlfriend Hermione came with me to the base camp. According to the requirements of the Chinese side, a liaison officer and a translator must accompany us to the base camp. Although this is a very small-scale operation, the cost is the biggest one. Relying on my lectures, writing books, and signing advertising contracts with the industrial and commercial sectors are not able to earn so much money, but I am still determined to do it. It is important for me to go to Tibet and separate Mount Everest. Money is the second of these two things.
At the beginning of the operation, I immediately felt that I could only climb the days when the Indian monsoon was intermittent. However, the deep snowfall after the monsoon made me slow. It took me a great deal of effort to get to Beibei. Climbing on this soft new snow is very dangerous, so I returned to base camp, left Mount Everest and traveled to Tibet in the west.
There were several good days when we returned in mid-August, but I hesitated a few days and delayed some time. Because I am not sure whether this means that the monsoon season is over. The first day's operation was from the base camp to the 6,500-meter forward camp where the yak can transport items. At the forward camp, I transported some items to the next camp and returned to the camp. The next day I went to the height of 7800 meters north. I'm a single person The experience of Nanjia Parbat has taught me that a single player must act quickly. Since I want to bring all my belongings, I must count the weight of one or two.
Although I made progress from 6,500 meters to 7,800 meters the next day, I could not climb more than 1,000 meters to the top on the third day. On the third day, August 19, I found it impossible to go up the planned route. In a valley below the northeast ridge, it was covered with snow. So I cut across to the right, following another route I observed at Base Camp. This is the northern side of Mount Everest. The climbing routes are interrelated. "Where the last step depends depends on where the first step is; The first step is where to go depending on where the last step is." I spent a day cutting across the northern slope of Mount Qomolangma. On August 20, I arrived in the Greater Norton Valley. Although this valley was not particularly steep, it was very dangerous. After entering the valley, the terrain was gentle and not far from the top. The last ridge leading to the peak seems to be endless, my steps getting smaller and slower, and eventually I have to climb to the top with my hands and knees. This is a painful moment. In my life, I have never been as tired.
I sat on top of the peak, sat for a long time, and didn't want to do anything else. I do not want to go on, it is boring. In the end, I forced myself to go down and I was on the verge of physical collapse.
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