On October 17, 1986, I and Hans Canmerland climbed the top of Lhotse. At this point, I realized my desire to have all 14 peaks above 8000 meters in the world. When I evacuated from the top of Lhotse, I was immersed in a feeling of calm and satisfaction. All the impulses were exhausted. Collaborators at the base camp flocked to the Icefall area to welcome us. Journalists from International Trekking magazine, Sherpas moved to work, and even the team's chefs came. “Hey, congratulations to both of you!†With the greetings from the partners, a cup of hot tea was handed in. We embrace each other and everyone is very relieved.
I am naturally very happy. However, I do not think that there are any special heroic acts in all 14 peaks above 8000 meters above the summit. There is nothing special to be proud of. As a climber, I don’t have any difference. I just experienced climbing. In the process, the Japanese standard set four years ago was realized, and nothing more. If anyone thinks that the first person to finish the fourteen peaks is a contest between mountaineers, I am just happy to see the end of the home game. Everything has become the place to go. From this morning on, I feel very relaxed and comfortable to start a new life.
It took me 16 years to climb all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 meters. This was not my ambition 16 years ago. It was only four years ago that I developed the idea of ​​the main idea. Choosing a difficult climbing route and setting new goals are more important to me. I always try to deal with difficult problems in new ways, push our climbing and myself to the limit and limit.
The true art of mountaineering is survival. When people take the summit as a sign of success, the higher the human race, the worse the living environment becomes. There are no traces of human beings in the mountains. To go mountaineering is not only like-minded people, but also very few people who understand you. The mountain stands there, it is an unrecognized land. The shock and experience that this brings us is unmatched by any pastoral.
It has been more than 100 years since humans climbed a peak of more than 8,000 meters. In 1895, Albert Ma Majue slid Nanjia Parbat Peak with a gas pole still worth emulating. He did not return and was left there forever. Between 1921 and 1924, British mountaineers tried to invade Lumma Peak three times in succession. They once reached a position very close to the peak. Some of them don't even have oxygen masks. Again and again failures took place in the city of Zhangjiajiao and Qiao Geli. In the 1930s, many experienced mountaineers repeatedly tried to climb more than 8,000 meters of mountain peaks. However, all attempts were unsuccessful. The time is not ripe for the summit of 8000 meters above the summit.
After the Second World War, from 1950 to 1964, humans successfully boarded all fourteen peaks over 8,000 meters. In those days, these peaks were considered "conquered." The most important thing for the first boarders was to put a flag on the top of the mountain to announce their rights to this small land in terms of geography and mountaineering. The desire to conquer the mountain above 8,000 meters was strong at that time and included national honor. Most of the mountaineering activities are state organizations funded by the government or mountaineering groups. Only the best mountaineers in the country are eligible to participate. In order to put it into practice, it is said that it is a method of embedding a sheath, a zinc compound, and a zinc compound. Of course, the mountaineering equipment at that time was not perfect or even defective. The summits of the eight peaks used oxygen equipment; the summits of the six peaks claimed that they did not use oxygen. When some people say that he is the first person to have no more than 1,000 meters of mountain peaks, this is not true. The first to reach the summit of the mountain above 8,000 meters is the Frenchman Rachelno and Heizag. They did not use oxygen equipment when the front material was Puerner Peak. Hellmann Bohr alone realized the Nanga Parbat. There is no need for oxygen equipment on the peaks of the 8000-meter-long mountain that Megumi M. Ascends, and mountaineers and doctors all think that it is impossible to physically reach a height of more than 8,600 meters. But when the footprints of humans embark on all the peaks above 8,000 meters, human interest in climbing the world's peaks seems less intense. However, mountaineering is still moving forward. For example, in 1963, the United States team led by Norman Dyjure Fosse, climbed from the nobody's climb to the west ridge, and descended from the traditional southeast ridge, without becoming a feat of crossing Everest; in 1962, Tong Ni Kim Shufo, Andell Manhatt and Sigi Khan peak the Nanga Parbat Peak from the new route of Damir Valley on the west side of the South Parbat. This was a pioneering move because few people thought about using different routes to climb a mountain. However, the public lacks sufficient understanding of these innovations.
The large-scale development of the "second route" to climb 8000 meters of mountain peaks began in 1970. This year, the British team led the summit of Annapurna on the Great South Pole route under the leadership of Keres Bernington. Dogal Hawthorne and Dan Weylans also peaked at Annapurna with the help of teammates pulling ropes for a month.
There were steep cliffs on that route and they sometimes had to hang upside down on steep walls. The height of this route is almost twice that of the well-known Eger wall route. In the same year, an expedition composed of German and Italian mountaineers successfully climbed the summit of Nanga Parbat for the first time along Nupierir. My brother and I are both members of this expedition. We devoted ourselves wholeheartedly to climbing. It was the first time I climbed the peak of the Himalayas and it was the beginning of my new life.
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